Friday, August 26, 2011

haarlem!


since about may, those of us on the trip have been pelting each other with suggestions for things to do in amsterdam, rotterdam, outside of the netherlands - all over. it's been pretty overwhelming to keep track of it all... and with everything else, i managed to forget about one of the best suggestions ever.

since haarlem is only a 10 minute train ride from amsterdam centraal, clearly this had to happen. after a much less wet walk down to meertens for thursday's guest lecture, i hopped on a tram to centraal and i was on my way to haarlem. a couple of the girls on the program had already been to haarlem last weekend, about which the general consensus was: this is exactly what i think a medieval dutch town should feel like. i couldn't wait.

and it's totally true - within minutes outside of amsterdam, the fields spread out and little houses and farms start to pop up, and suddenly we're in this town with small buildings - still tall, but not the crazy leaning houses of amsterdam - more trees, and a huge town square surrounded by cathedral and town halls and little cafes. it was just lovely.



haarlem has little back-alley "courtyards" all over the place.


another view of the square, where i tried my first herring!


so, the friends who had been to haarlem earlier in the week told us about this windmill in haarlem that had burned down, then was restored not too long ago and was open for tours. clearly, we had to chase this windmill.

... and what a chase it turned out to be. we couldn't find it in the guidebook, then tried to find the info center for directions, then found everything EXCEPT the info center - including:

cheese shop! cheese shop!

count on me to find the purple flowers...

weird trees that require trellises for their branches? they're totally flat. it's weird.

puppy on the boat!

a very misleading sign.

eventually, we learned two things. haarlem signs lie. and open wifi networks are our savior.

after much wandering, we found the moten - windmille. it was definitely new, and not currently running when we got there, but very cool. i can't wait to go chase more moten!




on our way, we also found a rotating bridge! so cool.


so on our way back for the organ concert at the cathedral, we also found proof of why all the signs in alleys tell parents that they must hold their children's hand...

seriously creepy stuff.

and then, the cathedral. it was spectacular inside - very well maintained, and massive. huge high ceilings, lots of woodwork as well as the stones, and the windows were just gorgeous with the sun filtering inside. it was definitely a change from the dark gothic cathedrals in france, with so much sun and light paint.






plus, the organ itself was massive. nearly 300 years old, it was played by mendelssohn, handel, and even 10-year-old mozart. holy crap.


and look who i found! alex's parents made the trip out to haarlem, too, and we had a chance to visit again - and document our meeting this time! :)


all of that, and i even found my new favorite shoes. i call this trip a complete success!

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